The Twilght Zone

Wednesday  September16^th

Tagish, YT to Watson Lake, YT: 386.5 km

Cumulative distance: 3591 km

Maximum Speed: 126 km/h

Average speed: 78 km/h

From Skagway to Carcross, we experienced the best of the scenery that the Yukon has to offer. From to Carcross to Whitehorse, then down to Jake’s Corner, the scenery took a back seat.  From Six Mile River Resort to Watson Lake,  it was somewhere in the middle but still, there were things to see, only some of which were from the Twilight Zone. 

Enter Niels. We stop at the little place called Rancheria that is, well, you know where: the middle of Nowhere. I say this because it is often the case that you can drive a very long distance up here and not pass through a village or community but at best, a deserted gas station, motel and café. Certainly, we see traffic and I decided that out here, even if a person was stranded for some reason, chances are that they would not wait too long before a passerby was able to provide assistance.

                

I have no idea why Rancheria existed because it was not clear to me what industry supported the village. I am not sure the residents knew, either, other than the people working in the café. However, there are several buildings there, all somehow connected to whatever was going on. 

Inside the café, Niels sees an old friend from his days of motocross racing. We are so far from anywhere that this makes even a small amount of sense that we are all slack-jawed. Unfortunately, it is a bit of a sad story: Niels’ friend is driving a tractor-trailer for his son and hits a moose.  There is quite a bit of damage, especially to the moose, which did not suffer one iota. The truck is undriveable so Niels’ old friend is just waiting to get picked up and for the truck to be hauled away. Another vehicle ended up hitting the moose, too, and that vehicle was also undriveable but by the time we passed the accident scene, the driver of that vehicle had hitchhiked a ride into Watson Lake and then come back and retrieved his truck. It was all so fast we speculated that the driver had stolen the pick up but the next day, the RCs told us that was not the case.

IT DOES NOT END THERE. The part about Niels, I mean. The moose was finished. 

We are staying at the Historic Air Force Lodge in Watson Lake.  “Lodge” is a euphemism. It is the former barracks of flying officers ferrying aircraft to Alaska and Russia during WWII. It is Spartan – our “king” bed is merely two twins pushed together; twin blankets and twin sheets, too, which makes me think they just pushed it together for Nono and me before we arrived. Bathrooms are shared but fortunately, it is really clean, so it is o.k. The place is completely re-done so I think it bears little resemblance to what it must have been in the 40s, which saddens me on one hand but really, makes me thankful. 

Dinner is at Bee-Jays, walking distance from the barracks. It is the best dining in town, so says our host.  NOT tourist food, or atmosphere for that matter. It is a former gas station but still retains all the charm of a 50 year old never-renovated gas bar. I didn’t even realize that the gas pumps were no longer operating and I was quite surprised when somebody pulled up and parked beside the gas pump and went in to have dinner. The food is really good. I had veal cutlets. The don’t serve wine.

So, after dinner, we are sitting around the barracks having a glass of wine. I am outside putting the bike to bed and I get chatting with somebody who rides AND USED TO RIDE MOTOCROSS. IN THE OLD TIMER’S LEAGUE.  Are the hairs on the back of your neck not standing this very second? I call to Niels and sure enough, this is Errol, an old riding buddy from Motocross. 

We all feel like we are in an episode of The Twilight Zone. 

Constable Bulford, I feel I should tell you that we are on to you.

The bar at Rancheria, where we had lunch.

The Elvis Tribute, at Rancheria.

There's John, looking relaxed!

This gal was just walking down the highway, minding her own business.

The Historic Air Force Lodge

The Historic Air Force Lodge's owner's bus and residence.